Easy Christmas Stocking – Free Crochet Pattern

Easy Crochet Stocking

Looking for a classic crochet Santa stocking or a traditional Crochet Christmas stocking? You’ve come to the right place!

You can stop searching for crochet stockings as this may become your go-to easy crochet Christmas stocking pattern!  

This quick and simple crochet stocking pattern is the perfect crochet Xmas stocking for beginners or experienced crocheters.

It’s a free crochet stocking pattern with step-by-step written instructions and a full video tutorial. Unlike other stocking patterns, this pattern has a very simple heel (there’s no complicated fastening off and attaching it again) yet still has the wonderful stocking shape.

It works up really quickly – you can make it while watching your favorite Christmas movie. Grab your favorite festive beverage, get cozy and learn how to crochet a stocking!

Use the Table of Contents below to jump to any section of this pattern or keep scrolling down for all the details, the video tutorial and the written instructions. 

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Purchase the printer-friendly, ad-free PDF of this pattern that you can instantly download! It includes everything from this free pattern but you can easily save, print and access it anytime!

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Pattern Details

Skill Level

Easy & Beginner-Friendly

Size

The pattern creates a stocking that is approx. 19” high (from the tip of the toe to the corner of trim).

Materials

Yarn: 

• For the stocking body: any size 4 (medium) yarn. You will need approx. 185 yds. I used Impeccable yarn by Loops & Threads in the color “Cherry” (some pictures show the stocking in “Kelly Green” or “Gold”). This yarn is 100% acrylic. A skein is 285 yds / 260 m and 4.5 oz / 127.5 g. I used less than one skein.
• For the trim, there are two options:
  • Pipsqueak by Bernat in white (or a similar size 5 (bulky), 100% polyester yarn). You will need approx. 30 yds. I used Pipsqueak in “White.” A skein is 101 yds / 92 m and 3.5 oz / 100 g.
  • OR, two strands of any white, size 4 (medium) and 100% acrylic yarn. You will need approx. 2 x 40 yds. I used Impeccable yarn in “White.”

Crochet Hook Size: J/10 (6.00 mm).

Other Materials: Yarn needle, scissors and a measuring tape. Optional: stitch markers.

Terminology

This pattern is written for right-handed crochet using standard US terminology. If you’re more familiar with UK terms, here’s my US to UK Conversion Chart. 

Abbreviations

• ch/chs = chain/chains
• st/sts = stitch/stitches
• sk = skip
• sl st = slip stitch 
• sc = single crochet
• hdc = half double crochet 
• hdc2tog = half double crochet two together
• RS = right side 
• WS = wrong side 

Gauge

After Round 3, work should measure 2.75” across. Exact sizing is not important for this pattern.

Pattern Notes

• The stocking is made from the toe up. There are two sections: the stocking body and the trim. 
• Chains never count as stitches. 
• Rounds are joined with a slip stitch. This joining slip stitch does not count as a stitch and never gets worked into. 

Stitch Explanation

Half Double Crochet Two Together (hdc2tog)

In case making an hdc2tog is new to you, when the instructions say: “over the next 2 sts, hdc2tog,” it means: Yarn over (YO). Insert your hook into the next stitch (the first of two stitches). YO and pull up a loop (3 loops on your hook). YO and insert your hook into the next stitch (the second of two stitches). YO and pull up a loop (5 loops on your hook). YO and pull the yarn through the five loops on your hook. This completed hdc2tog counts as one stitch. 

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Video Tutorial

Watch the step-by-step video tutorial below or keep scrolling down for the written instructions.

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Just a Reminder!

This pattern is also available as a PDF, which includes everything listed here but as a printer-friendly, ad-free PDF that you can instantly download, save, print, make notes on and keep forever.

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How to Crochet the Easy Christmas Stocking

Stocking Body Instructions

Stocking Body Notes:

• Use the color you want for the stocking body (any size 4 (medium) yarn). Use this color for the entire stocking body section.
• For the stocking body section, there are three parts: 1) toe, 2) heel and 3) leg. The rounds/rows reset for each part but do not fasten off.
• Always work into the first stitch, which is the stitch attached to the chain. When the instructions for the beginning of the round say “next st,” work into the first stitch.

TOE INSTRUCTIONS

Start: Make a Magic Circle. 

Toe Round 1 (RS): Ch 1. 

Make 10 hdc into the Magic Circle. 

(10 sts. Reminder: chs never count as sts.). 

Pull Magic Circle tight to close. 

Sl st into the top of the first hdc to join.

Toe Round 2 (RS): Ch 1. Don’t turn. 

Reminder: always work into the first st.

*In the next st, 2 hdc. Hdc in the next st.* 

Repeat from * to * around. (15 sts). 

Sl st into the top of the first hdc to join.

Toe Round 3 (RS): Ch 1. Don’t turn.

*In the next st, 2 hdc. Hdc in the next 2 sts.*

Repeat from * to * around. (20 sts). 

Sl st into the top of the first hdc to join.

After Toe Round 3, work should measure 2.75” across. Measurements are provided throughout the pattern for reference but exact sizing is not important. 

Toe Round 4 (RS): Ch 1. Don’t turn. 

*In the next st, 2 hdc. Hdc in the next 3 sts.*

Repeat from * to * around. (25 sts). 

Sl st into the top of the first hdc to join.

Toe Round 5 (RS): Ch 1. Don’t turn. 

*In the next st, 2 hdc. Hdc in the next 4 sts.*

Repeat from * to * around. (30 sts). 

Sl st into the top of the first hdc to join.

Toe Round 6 (RS): Ch 1. Don’t turn. 

*In the next st, 2 hdc. Hdc in the next 5 sts.*

Repeat from * to * around. (35 sts). 

Sl st into the top of the first hdc to join.

Toe Round 7 (RS): Ch 1. Don’t turn. 

*In the next st, 2 hdc. Hdc in the next 6 sts.*

Repeat from * to * around. (40 sts). 

Sl st into the top of the first hdc to join.

After Toe Round 7, work (when folded) should measure 5.5” wide (measured at the widest part) and 3” high.

Toe Round 8 (RS): Ch 1. Don’t turn. 

Hdc in each st around. (40 sts). 

Sl st into the top of the first hdc to join.

Toe Rounds 9 – 12: Repeat Round 8. 

After Toe Round 12, work (when folded) should measure 6.5” wide and 5” high. 

Do not fasten off. 

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HEEL INSTRUCTIONS

Heel Row 1 (RS): Ch 1. Don’t turn. 

Hdc in the next 18 sts. 

Leave the rest of the sts in the round unworked. 

(18 sts).

For the rest of the heel, you will chain 1 and turn at the beginning of each row. On wrong side (WS) rows, the back/inside of your work will be facing you. On right side (RS) rows, the front/outside of your work will be facing you.

Heel Row 2 (WS): Ch 1 and turn.

Hdc in the next 18 sts. (18 sts). 

Heel Rows 3 – 8: Repeat Heel Row 2. 

After Heel Row 8, the heel flap should measure 6.25” wide and 4” high (measured from the end of the toe section). 

Do not fasten off.

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LEG INSTRUCTIONS

Leg Round 1 (RS): Ch 1 and turn.

TOP: Work across the top into the sts from the last row of the heel. Hdc in the next 18 sts.

SIDE (DOWN): Work down the side of the heel. Make 8 evenly spaced out hdc sts down the side. When working into the sts/chs at the start/end of every row, work into two loops (not into spaces around the sts). Exact st placement is not important. I worked 1 hdc into the start/end of every row. 

BOTTOM: Work into the unworked sts from the last round of the toe section. Hdc in the next 22 sts. 

SIDE (UP): Work up the side of the heel. Make 8 evenly spaced out hdc sts up the side (same instructions as working down). 

(56 sts). 

Sl st into the top of the first hdc to join.

Leg Round 2 (RS): Ch 1. Don’t turn. 

Hdc in the next 25 sts.

Over the next 2 sts, hdc2tog. 

Hdc in the next 20 sts. 

Over the next 2 sts, hdc2tog.

Hdc in the next 7 sts.

(54 sts).

Sl st into the top of the first hdc to join.

Leg Round 3 (RS): Ch 1. Don’t turn. 

Hdc in the next 24 sts.

Over the next 2 sts, hdc2tog. 

Hdc in the next 20 sts. 

Over the next 2 sts, hdc2tog.

Hdc in the next 6 sts.

(52 sts).

Sl st into the top of the first hdc to join.

Leg Round 4 (RS): Ch 1. Don’t turn. 

Hdc in the next 23 sts.

Over the next 2 sts, hdc2tog. 

Hdc in the next 20 sts. 

Over the next 2 sts, hdc2tog.

Hdc in the next 5 sts.

(50 sts).

Sl st into the top of the first hdc to join.

Leg Round 5 (RS): Ch 1. Don’t turn. 

Hdc in the next 22 sts.

Over the next 2 sts, hdc2tog. 

Hdc in the next 20 sts. 

Over the next 2 sts, hdc2tog.

Hdc in the next 4 sts.

(48 sts).

Sl st into the top of the first hdc to join.

Note: It’s normal for the heel to look big, square and bulky. It looks better once the pattern is completed and the stocking is folded. 

Leg Round 6 (RS): Ch 1. Don’t turn. 

Hdc in the next 21 sts.

Over the next 2 sts, hdc2tog. 

Hdc in the next 20 sts. 

Over the next 2 sts, hdc2tog.

Hdc in the next 3 sts.

(46 sts).

Sl st into the top of the first hdc to join.

Leg Round 7 (RS): Ch 1. Don’t turn. 

Hdc in the next 20 sts.

Over the next 2 sts, hdc2tog. 

Hdc in the next 20 sts. 

Over the next 2 sts, hdc2tog.

Hdc in the next 2 sts.

(44 sts).

Sl st into the top of the first hdc to join.

Leg Round 8 (RS): Ch 1. Don’t turn. 

Hdc in each st around (44 sts). 

Sl st into the top of the first hdc to join.

Leg Rounds 9 – 22: Repeat Leg Round 8.  

After Leg Round 22, work should measure 7” wide and 16” high (from the tip of the toe to the corner of the leg). 

Fasten off (meaning to cut the yarn from the skein and pull the tail/end through the loop that was on your hook). 

Stocking Trim Instructions

TRIM NOTES

• You can either use Pipsqueak by Bernat in white (or a similar size 5 (bulky), 100% polyester yarn) OR two strands of any white, size 4 (medium) and 100% acrylic yarn.
• If you are using Pipsqueak, it can be difficult to see your stitches. It’s best to count as you work to ensure you have the correct stitch count. You can use stitch markers to help keep track of rounds. 
• If you are using two strands of size 4 (medium) yarn, you will use two strands at the same time, treating them as one and crocheting normally. You can either separate your yarn manually or use two skeins. To separate your yarn manually from the skein, set aside 40 yds before starting the trim. You will follow the instructions for the trim and hanging loop exactly using your two strands of yarn. It’s okay if they overlap or twist.

TRIM INSTRUCTIONS

With the RS of the stocking facing you, attach your yarn for the trim to a stitch in the center of the back of the stocking (see image below for reference). To attach the yarn, insert your hook into the stitch, place your yarn on your hook and pull it through the stitch. 

Trim Round 1 (RS): Ch 1. Don’t turn.

In the same st you attached the yarn to, sc. 

Sc in each st around (sk the sl st from the last round on the leg and only work into the tops of hdc sts). 

(44 sts).

Sl st into the top of the first sc to join. 

Trim Round 2 (WS): Ch 1 and turn. 

Sk the st attached to the ch (this is the sl st from the previous round and never gets worked in or counted as a st). 

Sc in the next st and in each st around. (44 sts). 

Sl st into the top of the first sc to join.

Trim Round 3 – 8: Repeat Trim Round 2.

After Trim Round 8, the trim should measure 3” high and 8” wide. 

Do not fasten off.

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HANGING LOOP

Ch 8 (or any number of chs – there’s no multiple required). Sl st into the same st (the first st made in the last round of the trim where you joined). 

Fasten off and weave in all loose ends. 

And now you have a new stocking!

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