Basketweave Stitch Blanket – Free Crochet Pattern

Basketweave Stitch Blanket

Learn how to crochet the basketweave stitch and make this beautiful and cuddly crochet basketweave stitch blanket. Featuring a textured design that mimics the look of woven fabric, this blanket combines both style and comfort.

The intricate basketweave stitch creates a cozy, dense fabric. Soft and durable, this crochet blanket is ideal for snuggling on chilly evenings or as a stylish accent draped over a favorite chair.

This Basketweave Stitch Blanket Crochet Pattern makes a wonderful baby blanket. Its charming woven design adds a delightful dimension, creating a soft and plush surface that’s gentle on delicate skin. Perfectly sized for cribs or strollers, this blanket provides warmth while remaining lightweight.

The timeless basketweave design blends a touch of elegance with cozy practicality, making it an ideal gift for a newborn or a cherished keepsake. Whether for cuddles or nursery décor, this blanket wraps your little one in snug softness.

With detailed written instructions and diagrams as well as a step-by-step video tutorial, you can easily crochet this blanket without any guesswork.

Use the Table of Contents below to jump to any section of the pattern or keep scrolling down to view all the details, the video tutorial and the free written pattern.

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Pattern Details

Skill Level

Easy

Size

The pattern creates a blanket that is approx. 36” x 36” with the border (34” x 34” without the border). Instructions for adjusting the size are included in the pattern.

Materials

Yarn: Any size 3 (light) yarn. You will need approx. 1,960 yds in total (1,775 yds for the blanket body and 185 yds for the border).

I used Luxe Merino by Loops & Threads in the color “Celestial Blue.” This yarn is size 3 (light) and 55% superwash merino & 45% acrylic. A skein is 410 yds / 375 m and 5.3 oz / 150 g. I used five skeins in total.

Can I Use a Different Yarn Weight?

This pattern was designed, made and tested using size 3 (light) yarn. You are welcome to try a different yarn weight and/or hook size but the size, overall look and feel of your blanket as well as the amount of yarn required may be different. 

For example, if you use size 4 (medium) yarn, your blanket may be thicker and heavier with tighter stitches and your blanket may not be as flexible as it was designed to be. 

If you would like to try making it with size 4 (medium) yarn, you can try going up a hook size and use a K/10.5 hook for the blanket body and 7.00 mm hook for the border. I recommend you make a small sample to see if you like it (see the instructions for how to adjust the size for the multiples of starting chains required). 

Crochet Hook Sizes: 

• For the blanket body: J/10 (6.00 mm)
• For the blanket border: K/10.5 (6.50 mm)

Other Materials: Yarn needle, scissors, stitch markers and a measuring tape. 

Terminology

This pattern is written for right-handed crochet using standard US terminology. If you’re more familiar with UK terms, here’s my US to UK Conversion Chart. 

Abbreviations

• ch/chs = chain/chains
• st/sts = stitch/stitches
• sp/spaces = space/spaces
• sk = skip
• sl st = slip stitch 
• sc = single crochet
• hdc = half double crochet
• dc = double crochet 
• FPdc = front post double crochet
• BPdc = back post double crochet
• ch-1 sp = chain one space
• ch-2 sp = chain two space
• RS = right side (front)
• WS = wrong side (back)

Gauge

Exact sizing is not important. For reference, 4” x 4” = 15 sts and 11 rows (following the pattern for the blanket body). 

Pattern Notes

• Chains never count as stitches. 
• Tip: for the blanket body, you may find it helpful to place a stitch marker in the top of the first hdc made in each row. This will help you find the last stitch of the row more easily. 
• The blanket is completely reversible and looks the same on both sides:

How to Adjust the Size

The pattern creates a blanket that is approx. 36” x 36” with the border (34” x 34” without the border). 

The number of starting chains determines the width and the number of rows determines the height. To adjust the width, make more or less starting chains in multiples of 8 + 4 (meaning to take any number that you can divide by 8 and then add 4 to that number). To adjust the height, make more or less rows (ensure you end after completing a repeat of Row 5). 

As a guideline: 130 sts = 34“ wide, which means there are approx. 3.75 stitches in an inch. You can take the width you want your blanket to be (in inches) and multiply it by 3.75 (for example, if you want your blanket to be approx. 100” wide, 100 x 3.75 = 375). Round up to the nearest multiple of 8. In this example, you would round up to 376. Now, add 4 to that number: 376 + 4 = 380. So, you would need 380 starting chains to make the blanket approx. 100” wide. (This is a rough estimate and has not been tested but should give you a width that is close to what you want it to be). 

Stitch Explanations

In this pattern, you will be making front and back post double crochet stitches. If these stitches are new to you, here’s how to make them: 

Note: when making a front or back post double crochet stitch, only work around the post of the stitch from below and leave the top of the stitch unworked.

Front Post Double Crochet (FPdc):

Yarn over, insert your hook from the front to the back at the right of the designated stitch and bring your hook out at the left of the same stitch. Then finish your double crochet stitch as you normally would: yarn over and pull through a loop (3 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull the yarn through the first two loops on your hook (2 loops on hook). Yarn over, pull the yarn through the last two loops on your hook.

Back Post Double Crochet (BPdc): 

Yarn over, insert your hook from the back to the front at the right of the designated stitch and bring your hook out at the left of the same stitch. Then finish your double crochet stitch as you normally would: yarn over and pull through a loop (3 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull the yarn through the first two loops on your hook (2 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull the yarn through the last two loops on your hook.

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Video Tutorial

Watch the step-by-step video tutorial below or keep scrolling down for the written instructions.

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Just a Reminder!

This pattern is also available as a PDF, which includes everything listed here but as a printer-friendly, ad-free PDF that you can instantly download, save, print, make notes on and keep forever.

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How to Crochet the Basketweave Stitch Blanket

Blanket Body Instructions

For the entire blanket body, use a J/10 (6.00 mm) hook.

Start: Ch 132.

For Row 1 (only) work into the back ridge loops. 

Row 1 (RS): In the third ch from the hook, dc. 

Dc in each ch across. 

(130 dc sts). 

Row 2 (WS): Ch 1 and turn.

In the first st (the st attached to the ch), hdc. 

*FPdc around the next 4 sts.

BPdc around the next 4 sts.*

Repeat from * to * across until there is 1 st left.

In the last st, hdc. 

(130 sts: 2 hdc sts, 64 FPdc sts & 64 BPdc sts).

Row 3 (RS): Repeat Row 2. 

Row 4 (WS): Ch 1 and turn.

In the first st (the st attached to the ch), hdc. 

*BPdc around the next 4 sts.

FPdc around the next 4 sts.*

Repeat from * to * across until there is 1 st left.

In the last st, hdc. 

(130 sts: 2 hdc sts, 64 FPdc sts & 64 BPdc sts).

Row 5 (RS): Repeat Row 4. 

Row 6 and on: Repeat Rows 2 – 5 consecutively until the height of your blanket body matches the width (for a square blanket) or until you reach your desired height. Ensure you finish the blanket body after completing a repeat of Row 5. (The height of my completed blanket body was 34” and I made 93 rows).  Do not fasten off. Begin the blanket border. 

Blanket Border Instructions

Use a K/10.5 (6.50 mm) hook for the entire border. Ensure you have just finished a repeat of Row 5. 

For the entire border, do not crochet too tightly. Make all your stitches loosely. After completing each side, stretch your work slightly. These steps will help ensure the border doesn’t pull on the blanket body.

Border Round 1 (RS): Ch 1. Do not turn. 

When you make your first sc st down the side, place a stitch marker in the top of that st. 

SIDE (DOWN): Work down the side and into the sts at the end of each row (into one loop or two – just not into sps). Make 6 evenly spaced out sc sts every 4 rows. 

Exact placement and number of sts is not important – making 6 evenly spaced out sc sts every 4 rows will ensure you have enough sc sts that the border doesn’t pull the blanket body. 

At the bottom of the side, at the end of Row 1, make 1 sc. 

BOTTOM: Work into both loops of each ch across the bottom. In the first ch, make (sc, ch 2, sc) – first corner made. Sc in each ch across the bottom until there is 1 ch left. In the last ch, make (sc, ch 2, sc) – second corner made.

SIDE (UP): Work up the side and into the sts at the end of each row (into one loop or two – just not into sps). At the start of working up the side, into the end of Row 1, make 1 sc. For the rest of the side, make 6 evenly spaced out sc sts every 4 rows.

TOP: In the first st across the top, make (sc, ch 2, sc) – third corner made. Sc in each st across the top until there is 1 st left. In the last st, make (sc, ch 2, sc) – fourth corner made.

Do not join. 

Border Round 2 (RS):  Ch 1. Do not turn. 

In the first st (the st with the stitch marker – you can now remove the stitch marker), sc. 

The sp between the last sc from the previous round and this first sc (under the ch-1) creates your “first ch-1 sp.”

Place a stitch marker in this first ch-1 sp. 

Reminder: do not crochet too tightly. Make all your stitches loosely and after completing each side, stretch your work slightly.

[*Ch 1. Sk the next st. In the next st, sc.*

Repeat from * to * until the corner ch-2 sp. 

In the previous round, you made a (sc, ch 2, sc) in each corner.  The sp between the 2 sc sts and under the ch-2 creates a “ch-2 sp” that you will work into. Depending on how many sts you have on each side, you will either make a sc in the sc st before the ch-2 or skip that sc – it doesn’t matter which. Just ensure you make a ch 1 before working into the corner ch-2 sp. 

Ch 1. In the corner ch-2 sp, (sc, ch 2, sc).]

Repeat from [ to ] around blanket.

After completing the last corner, do not join. 

Border Round 3 (RS): Do not turn. 

Ch 1. In the first ch-1 sp (the sp with the stitch marker – you can now remove the marker), sc. A new first ch-1 sp has now been created. Place a stitch marker in this first ch-1 sp. 

[*Ch 1. In the next ch-1 sp, sc.*

Repeat from * to * until the corner ch-2 sp. 

Ch 1. In the corner ch-2 sp, (sc, ch 2, sc).]

Repeat from [ to ] around blanket. 

After completing the last corner, do not join. 

Border Rounds 4 – 6: Repeat Border Round 3. 

You can repeat Border Round 3 more or less times until you are happy with the size of your border.

To finish, after your last corner, ch 1. Sk the first sc and the first ch-1 sp (the sp with the stitch marker – you can now remove the marker). Sl st into the top of the next sc to join.

Fasten off and weave in all loose ends. 

And now you have a new basketweave stitch blanket!

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