Flip Flop Chair Socks – Free Crochet Pattern

Crochet Chair Socks

My daughters and I were sitting around the table doing a puzzle and having a wonderful time. I leaned forward to get a puzzle piece and my chair moved back a little and made a horrible “nails on a chalkboard” screeching sound from one of the chair legs scratching the floor.

The 100th felt furniture sticker had fallen off the bottom of one of the chair legs, was covered in dog hair and could not be stuck back on. Something had to be done. Crochet to the rescue!

I wanted to create really unique and fun chair leg socks and thought how cute would it be if the chair was wearing flip flops!

I’ve added these flip flop chair leg covers to my collection of 50+ Interesting Things to Crochet.

About These Crochet Chair Leg Covers:

• The pattern includes instructions for making right and left feet. You could make two right feet and two left feet or make them all the same – up to you!
• They work up really quickly and use very little yarn – a great quick-make and stash-busting project.
• These crochet chair leg covers have two layers of protection between the chair and the floor.
• You can hand-wash them as needed.
• You can use any size 4 (medium) yarn.

Use the Table of Contents below to jump to any section of this pattern or keep scrolling down for all the details and the written instructions. 

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Pattern Details (Size, Yarn, Hook & Notes) 

Skill Level

Intermediate

Size

The pattern creates a chair sock with a circular 1.5” opening/diameter (without stretching). It is designed to fit (or stretch to fit) a chair leg that is circular or square with a diameter up to 2”. 

Materials

Yarn: Any size 4 (medium) yarn in two colors. You will need approx. 15 yds for the flip flop and 19 yds for the foot (for each chair sock). I used Loops & Threads Impeccable Yarn, Solid in the colors Aqua for the flip flop and Golden Beige for the foot. This yarn is medium (4) weight and 100% acrylic (a skein is 4.5 oz / 127.5 g and 285 yds / 260 m). 

Crochet Hook Size: H/8 (5.00) mm.

Other Materials: yarn needle, scissors and measuring tape. Optional: stitch markers and polyester stuffing. 

Terminology

This pattern is written for right-handed crochet using standard US terminology. If you’re more familiar with UK terms, here’s my US to UK Conversion Chart. 

Abbreviations

• ch = chain
• st = stitch
• sts = stitches 
• sl st = slip stitch 
• sc = single crochet
• sk = skip 
• FLO = front loop only

Gauge

Measurements listed throughout the pattern.

Pattern Notes

• Always work into the 1st stitch (the stitch attached to the chain), unless instructed to skip it. 
• The pattern is worked in the round. Do not turn after any round, unless instructed to turn. 
• Chains never count as stitches. 
• When the instructions say: “[2 sc in the next st] x 3” what this means is to repeat the instructions in the brackets a total of 3 times so in this example it would be: 2 sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st, 2 in the next st.   
• To help keep count of stitches, place a stitch marker in the top of the first stitch of each round.

Special Stitches

SM Bobble = In this pattern, a SM Bobble means to double crochet two times together (dc2tog), in the same stitch. You will be working into the front loop only when you make this stitch, which is the loop closest to you. 

Here’s how: yarn over and insert your hook under the front loop only of the designated stitch. Yarn over and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull the yarn through 2 loops on your hook (2 loops left on hook). Yarn over and insert your hook under the the same front loop of same designated stitch. Yarn over and pull up a loop (4 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull the yarn through 2 loops on your hook (3 loops left on hook). Yarn over and pull the yarn through all 3 loops on your hook.

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LG Bobble = In this pattern, a LG Bobble means to double crochet three times together (dc3tog), in the same stitch. You will be working into the front loop only when you make this stitch, which is the loop closest to you. 

Here’s how: yarn over and insert your hook under the front loop only of the designated stitch. Yarn over and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull the yarn through 2 loops on your hook (2 loops left on hook). Yarn over and insert your hook under the same front loop of the same designated stitch. Yarn over and pull up a loop (4 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull the yarn through 2 loops on your hook (3 loops left on hook). Yarn over and insert your hook under the same front loop of the same designated stitch. Yarn over and pull up a loop (5 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull the yarn through 2 loops on your hook (4 loops left on hook). Yarn over and pull the yarn through all 4 loops on your hook.

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Hdc2tog: I recommend using the “invisible half double crochet decrease” method when making hdc2tog (half double crochet two together) stitches. In this pattern, hdc2tog means to work across two stitches and join (decrease) them into one. 

Here’s how: Yarn over. Insert your hook under the front loop only of the next stitch (3 loops on hook). Without yarning over, insert your hook under the front loop only of the next stitch (4 loops on hook).

Yarn over and pull the yarn through 2 loops on hook (3 loops left on hook). Yarn over and pull the yarn through all 3 loops on your hook. 

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How to Crochet the Flip Flop Chair Socks

Flip Flop Soles

Start: With flip flop color, chain 9. 

For Round 1 (only), work into the back ridge loops. 

Round 1: In the 2nd ch from hook, sc. Sc in the next 6 chains. In the next ch, 3 sc. Working along the other side of the ch, sc in the next 6 chains. In the last ch, 2 sc. (18 sts. Reminder: chains never count as stitches). Sl st into the 1st sc to join.

Round 2: Ch 1. (Reminder: don’t turn unless instructed to). In the 1st st, 2 sc. Sc in the next 6 sts. [2 sc in the next st] x 3. Sc in the 7 sts. In the last st, 2 sc. (23 sts). Sl st into the 1st sc to join.

Round 3: Ch 1. In the 1st st, 2 sc. Sc in the next 9 sts. [2 sc in the next st] x 3. Sc in the next 9 sts. In the last st, 2 sc. (28 sts). Sl st into the 1st sc to join. 

Measure: after Round 3, sole should measure 2” wide and 4” long. 

Fasten off, leaving a 24” tail. Weave in starting tail (only). Put sole aside. 

Flip Flop Straps

Use flip flop color and make a short strap and a long strap. Leave a 8” starting and ending tail for both straps. 

Short strap: Chain 7. Fasten off. 

Long strap: Chain 8. Fasten off. 

Put straps aside. 

Foot

Start: With foot color, chain 8.

For Round 1 (only), work into the back ridge loops.

Round 1: In the 2nd ch from hook, sc. Sc in the next 5 chains. In the next ch, 3 sc. Working along the other side of the ch, sc in the next 5 chains. In the last ch, 2 sc. (16 sts). Sl st into the 1st sc to join.

Round 2: Ch 1. In the 1st st, 2 sc. Sc in the next 5 sts. [2 sc in the next st] x 3. Sc in the 6 sts. In the last st, 2 sc. (21 sts). Sl st into the 1st sc to join.

Measure: after Round 2, foot should measure 1.25” wide and 2.75” long. 

Round 3: Ch 1 and turn. Sk the 1st st. Sc in the FLO of the next 9 sts. Do not fasten off. 

Choose whether you are making a right OR a left foot. For a right foot, the 3 small toes (3 SM Bobbles) are first, followed by the big toe (LG Bobble). For a left foot, the big toe (LG Bobble) is first, followed by 3 small toes (3 SM Bobbles).

Note: for this pattern, only 4 toes are made in total. 

For Right Foot Toes: 

[In the FLO of the next st, SM Bobble. Sl st in the FLO of the same st] x 3. In the FLO of the next st, LG Bobble. Sl st in the FLO of the same st. 

OR 

For Left Foot Toes:

In the FLO of the next st, LG Bobble. Sl st in the FLO of the same st. [In the FLO of next st, SM Bobble. Sl st in the FLO of the same st] x 3.

The instructions for the rest of the round are the same for right and left feet: 

Sc in the FLO of the next 8 sts. (21 sts – the slip stitches after each toe do not count as stitches). Sl st into both loops of the 1st sc to join. 

Round 4: Ch 1 and turn. Sk the 1st st. Sc in each st around – sk the slip stitches after each toe. (21 sts). Sl st into the 1st sc to join. Do not fasten off. 

Weave in the starting tail of the foot. 

Attach the bottom of the foot to the sole using the 24” tail from the sole. Place the sole with the right side facing up underneath the foot. The back of the sole should be at the back of the foot. Weave in and out along the bottom of the foot. Secure the toes to the sole by going though two bottom loops). Weave in loose end of flip flop color. 

Round 5: Ch 1. (Don’t turn for the rest of the pattern). Sc in the next 8 sts. [Hdc2tog] x 3 (see Special Stitches). Sc in the next 7 sts. (18 sts). Sl st in the 1st sc to join.

Round 6: Ch 1. Sc in the next 6 sts. [Hdc2tog] x 3. Sc in the next 6 sts. (15 sts). Sl st in the 1st sc to join.

Measure: after Round 6, the chair leg opening should have a diameter of 1.5”.

Round 7: Ch 1. Sc in each st around. (15 sts). Sl st in the 1st sc to join. 

Rounds 8 – 10: Repeat Row 7.

Measure: the height of the foot (not including flip flop sole) should measure 2.5” high. 

Attach Flip Flop Straps

Using the 8” tails from the flip flop straps, attach the smaller strap to the sole with one end in between the big toe and first small toe. Going over the foot, attach the other end of the strap to the sole in the middle of the flip flop (the side closest to the big toe). Weave in and out along strap to attach it to the foot. 

Attach the larger strap the same way except that the end of the strap goes to the side furthest from the big toe. 

To help with the loose ends, you can tie all four ends in a knot and then cut the end of the knot and tuck the knot towards the toes. 

I personally did not use stuffing but you could add stuffing to the toe area, which could help the chair sock stay to on the chair.

Make a chair sock for the rest of your chair legs. And now you have new flip flop chair socks! 

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